theodp writes: The Waterloo Cedar Falls Courier reports that Ben Schafer, an associate CS prof at the Univ. of Northern Iowa, was recognized at Code.org’s annual summit for training 570 K-12 teachers in Iowa, which is equivalent to 5.5 percent of all U.S. teachers trained. Schafer ranked No. 2 in the ‘500 Club’, a Code.org affiliate of trainers who trained more than 500 teachers in the first year of the program. Code.org’s K-5 Affiliates "deliver one-day, in-person workshops to local elementary school teachers to teach computer science in a format that’s fun and accessible". A Term Sheet explains to potential Affiliates that "Code.org will pay you $50 per workshop-attendee to cover costs, including food, and to compensate you and any teaching assistants." According to a White House’ Fact Sheet, Code.org plans to use $20 million in philanthropic funds to train 10,000 teachers by fall 2015 and 25,000 teachers by fall 2016. You can follow their progress on Twitter, kids!
When you’ve got a running shoe you swear by, you’d think shopping would be easy—but shoe makers change styles, and stores can be fickle in what they keep in stock. Shoekicker comes to the rescue by finding your shoe and telling you who has the best price.
The site doesn’t yet include listings from local running stores, but its creator is planning to add that feature soon. For now, it’s best for older models that you’ve grown to love but that have become hard to find. Fortunately, shoes fitting that description are often available at a deep discount if you know where to look—and Shoekicker does.
Unlike most other shooting sports, shotguns are fast-paced and full of action. Whether it’s trap, skeet, sporting clays or upland bird, you’ll be using a lot of shells, targets will be numerous and your success will be high. This is how to start shooting.
Basic Equipment
To start, a basic, pump-operated shotgun is going to give you a reliable, affordable, fun option; cycling the action on a pump gun is just an iconic experience. The Weatherby PA-08 is a great gun starting at just $399. For adult men, a 12ga is the most versatile gauge, but smaller women and children may prefer the lighter kick of a 20ga. Or, just rent whatever your local range has available.
You also need eye and ear protection. $5 safety glasses will get the job done your first couple of shoots, but just like with binoculars and scopes, quality optics make a huge difference. I wear a pair of Randolph Engineering’s Falcon shooting glasses. Since I’ve made the switch from cheapos, I now enjoy clearer vision and a wider field of view. Yellow lenses are a good all-round option, working to increase contrast, but purple may work better if you’re shooting clays in bright environments. Ideally, you’ll have glasses that give you lens options for different conditions.
In my ears, I’ve worn Howard Leight MaxLite plugs for over a decade. They’re some of the quietest disposable plugs out there, and also the softest. So they’re both effective and comfortable, as well as affordable. Big ear defenders may cut a little more sound, but can get in the way of a mounted stock. These work just as well on a motorcycle as they do on a loud airplane with babies crying or on the gun range.
You’ll also need something to hold your shells. A basic shell pouch is a good, versatile, affordable option that will work with whatever you’re wearing. Bonus points if it makes room for both fresh and spent shells; you’ll need to collect those as you use them. A shooting vest performs the same job, while maybe also adding some blaze orange for field use, or even a game pocket. Pick a lightweight mesh one, you’ll be able to wear that over any clothes in any weather.
You’ll also need a gun cleaning kit, be sure to thoroughly clean and oil your gun after any shoot; gun powder is corrosive.
Shooting Disciplines
Trap: The most basic and easiest one to start with has you stand behind a house that lobs clays up and away from you. Clays are thrown at 45mph. No matter your gun’s capacity, you shoot trap using a single shell for each throw.
Skeet: Two houses on either side of you throw clays across your front. You move between shooting stations which see clays thrown either individually or in tandem, from both houses in opposite directions. Skeet is much harder than trap as the clays are closer to you and moving side-to-side. American skeet throws the clays at 45mph; International at 90mph! You’ll use two shells for this one.
Sporting Clays: Like golf, but with a gun, you walk between different stations, each throwing the clays in a different manner. They come towards you, away from you, across, upwards, downwards and some even roll across the ground. It’s hard, but rewarding and is both a fun group activity and great preparation for hunting.
Upland Bird: Turkeys, pheasant, quail, dove, partridge and similar land-based birds. Each is its own, unique challenge, but together this group represents the iconic ideal of shotgun hunting; this is where you get to wear the tweed and the wellies as you stroll through the countryside.
Waterfowl: Duck, geese and similar and generally conducted from a blind or boat.
Shotgun Types
Single-Shot: break-action like an over/under or a side-by-side, these fire only a single shot, but are accurate, cheap and reliable.
Pump: Basic, reliable, affordable and able to hold multiple shells, pump guns are all anyone ever needs, but aren’t as fancy or convenient as the other options. You could keep that $399 12ga Weatherby for life and use it for everything you read about here without a problem. For hunting, and in some states, you’ll be restricted to a total capacity of three shells.
Semi-Auto: Like pumps, these store multiple shells in a tubular magazine, ejecting and feeding them using gas or inertia from the preceding shot. A little more money, but also a little faster to fire. A great option if you may need to follow up shots quickly, while keeping the gun mounted.
Over/Under: A style of double-barrel gun with a break action that’s popular for both target shooting and hunting. The advantage of a double-barrel is that you can choke each differently, optimizing each for a specific range; typically the first barrel to fire will be choked for closer shots, then the second will be choked for a slightly longer distance, giving you the ability to make a follow up shot if necessary. A selector enables you to chose which barrel fires first, for a little more variability. Most fancy shotguns are now over/unders.
Side-by-Side: Also a double-barrel gun with a break action. These are now out of fashion and you’ll tend to see side-by-sides on older guns. These are classic gentleman’s guns and objects of much elegance, which also means they tend to be simple designs with fixed chokes. Some dedicated fans claim side-by-sides are a better option for hunting than over/unders because you can use the unique sight picture created by the two barrels to accurately repeat leading distances on fast-moving birds or targets. On any double barrel gun, the two aren’t totally parallel, converging their shot on a point about 40 yards out from the muzzle. The shot overlaps through this distance, so there isn’t really a difference in aim no matter which you use. My girlfriend’s dad gifted us a couple of ridiculously nice side-by-sides, so this is what we shoot.
What’s A Choke?
Chokes constrict the end of the barrel and control the degree to which shot spreads out as it fires. Most shotguns now have screw-in chokes, allowing you to alter the shot pattern to suit your needs. This is much preferable to fixed chokes, typical of older guns, which lock you into certain patterns and ranges.
In order from widest pattern (closest range) to tightest pattern (furthest range), chokes range from: Cylinder (< 20 yards), Skeet (22.5 yards), Improved Cylinder (25 yards), Light Modified (30 yards), Modified (32.5 yards), Improved Modified (35 yards), Light Full (37.5 yards), Full (40 yards), Extra Full (> 40 yards).
Those ranges are general and are also heavily dependent on what type of shell, size of shot and amount of powder you’re shooting. But choosing the correct choke for the job is vital to shooting success.
Determine which is your dominant eye and hold the shotgun on that side of your body. Bring it up to you shoulder and rest your check against its stock. You should be bringing the stock up to your cheek, not lowering your head to to it.
Stand with your front foot pointing at your target and 60 to 70 percent of your weight over your front leg and lean into the gun. As you follow a target, twist at your waist.
You hold the shotgun at rest when you’re not shooting, then raise it to your shoulder, point it and fire when a target presents itself. Being able to mount the gun from rest in a quick, repeatable way that keeps its barrel in line with the target is the key to good shooting.
Your eye should be aligned so that you’re looking straight down the ramp, with the barrel parallel with your line of sight and the sight pin just hovering above the barrel. Some guns have a second pin, further back along the barrel towards you, that assists with alignment. That sight pin will put you dead-on with a stationary target. But, shotgun targets move, of course.
The old saying goes, “You aim a rifle, you point a shotgun.” Hitting stuff with one is much more a case of predicting where your target will be when the shot reaches them, then pointing the gun there. And doing that is simply a matter of experience. Plan on spending plenty of time at the range until you’ve figured this out.
Because the clay or bird is moving, the shotgun needs to be moving too. Swing it in the same arc that your target is traveling and keep it moving beyond the trigger pull; that’s a good follow through. And continuing to track the target is also what enables a follow up shot, if that’s necessary.
On a rifle, you slowly squeeze the trigger so that movement doesn’t upset your aim. On a shotgun, just pull the trigger rapidly.
I fired a shotgun for the first time when I was probably 12 or 13 years old (great sport for kids), then occasionally throughout the years. It wasn’t until we got those guns early this year that I started shooting in earnest. Shooting doves last November, on a borrowed Silver Pigeon, I knocked down seven and fired 100 shells. Yesterday, for season opener, I limited out at 15 birds in less than three boxes of shells. I’m by no means what anyone would describe as a good shot, but I’m able to enjoy the sport with reasonable proficiency and success. Invest in some decent equipment (as detailed above) and spend a few days at the range and you will be too. This is a fun, intuitive sport that’s enjoyed by all ages, in all parts of the country. That it also puts healthy, natural food on the table is just an added bonus.
IndefinitelyWild is a new publication about adventure travel in the outdoors, the vehicles and gear that get us there and the people we meet along the way. Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
I’m no fan of the current occupants of the White House… but yeah, this is funny. By now I guess everyone has heard of Joe Biden’s foolhardy advice to buy a double-barrel shotgun – and whenever you feel threatened or unsafe, stroll on outside and “fire two blasts outside the house.” It went something like[…..]
Made of stacked melted meteorite that looks more like Thor’s hammer and armed with the encyclopedic knowledge of knives and stunning skill from bladesmith Bob Kramer, these chef Kramer knives are among the finest in the world. This video of him, by Anthony Bourdain’s Raw Craft, features his process and it might be the most impressive knife making video I’ve ever seen.
And I’ve seen a lot! Kramer is one of only 122 certified master bladesmiths in the US and the only one who specializes in kitchen knives. This really is the best it gets.
Before you buy a home, it’s always a good idea to get a professional home inspector—but that shouldn’t be the only time you give your home a thorough look. Here’s a checklist of what to look for when performing a yearly visual inspection on your own home, or one you are considering buying.
A professional home inspection should not be skipped when buying a property (in fact, it’s the law in most places). But when you first visit the house, you can also do your own visual inspection so you can watch for certain trouble spots. Even after you buy the house, doing this at least once a year will catch most issues before they become major problems.
You’ll need a pair of binoculars, flashlight, gloves, screwdrive, notepad and pen, and a camera to document problems.
Outside the House
Begin your inspection on the outside of the home, where most problems will be found. Use your binoculars to scan the roofline, high walls, and chimney. Unless you suspect major damage, save climbing on the roof for the pros.
Do a slow walk around the home and take it all in. Does everything look level? Rooflines should look solid and not tilted or leaning. Windows should be square and not show rot in the wood around them. In addition, look at:
Gutters and Downspouts: Check for cracks, clogs, and damaged elbows. These problem areas allow water to run along walls and into the foundation, which can cause major damage. Use a ladder to investigate twigs or grass you see growing from the gutter.
Paint: Check for peeling paint, which can be a sign of moisture penetration on the wall. Cracking and flaking paint is due to adhesion problems or the surface deterioration. These are indicators that the siding needs to be replaced or repaired.
Chimneys: Look for anything that might be blocking the chimney opening such as a birds nest or fallen leaves. Inspect the bricks and mortar around the chimney which should be intact, with no cracks or broken pieces that allow water to seep in.
Roof: Check for broken or missing shingles, which compromises the weather protection of your home. Large tree branches that rest against or over your roof, can allow unwanted pests and rodents to gain access to your home. Tree branches that break off in storms can also cause damage.
Foundation: Take note of the grade around the foundation. It should be at least 8 inches below the siding (to prevent insects from getting into the siding) and slope away from the house. Keep an eye on hairline cracks in the foundation and take photos to document their size. A pro should inspect larger cracks in the concrete.
Driveways and Garage: Loose and cracking asphalt is a tripping hazard and also an entry point for water which can cause damage in the colder months.
Windows: Look for weather rotted caulk that is peeling or flaking away. These areas are prime for water and cold air to enter your home.
Decks, Stairs, and Porches: These areas require regular maintenance and it’s important to inspect above and below the surface. Look for loose and broken boards and missing screws. Inspect for signs of termite damage which include tunnels in wood or winged insects.
Preventing water from entering your home is the number one concern during a home inspection. Water and moisture inside your walls, floors, and basement is expensive to find and fix. By doing some preventative work, you have a great chance to catch an issue early on.
Inside the House
Use a flashlight when inspecting the inside of a home. It will allow you to spot problems under the sink, behind dressers, and in the basement and attic.
Walls and Ceilings: Dark blotchy stains can mean mildew from poor ventilation. Brown rings indicate a water leak from a broken pipe or problem with the roof.
Kitchen Backsplash and Counter: Look for open space between the backsplash and counter near the sink. This could allow water to drip behind the cabinets or sink.
Tub Surround: Damaged grout and cracked tiles are entry points for water getting into the walls. Feel for loose tiles around a tub or sink, as this may indicate an ongoing issue.
Caulk in the Bathroom: Check the condition of caulk around the bathtub, shower, and sink. If its deteriorating, water can get into the subfloor or walls.
Service Panel: Signs of rust inside a service panel indicates water is leaking into the panel. This can cause electrical shorts and be very hazardous. Scorch marks are an indicator that there is definitely a problem. Messy splices and uncovered Call an electrician immediately.
Stairs and Railings: Interior staircases and railings should feel solid under your feet and in your hands. Look underneath staircases for wood rot and damage. Older homes may have railing widths that are too wide which can be a hazard for small children.
Interior Paint: Wall surfaces should be clean and smooth. Vertical cracks in the paint can indicate drywall separation. Homes built before 1978 may also have lead paint, which requires special care during renovations.
Attic: Check for stains in the roof structure which are signs of a water leak. The entire floor surface of the attic should be insulated, including the corners and around vents.
Subfloor: Poke up at the subfloor from the basement with a screwdriver. It should be hard and solid. If it’s soft or squishy the wood could be rotted. If it’s rotted, try to determine if it’s anything other than age.
Basement: Basements should smell clean, without a hint of mold or mildew. Rust on objects that touch the floor would indicate previous flooding or moisture seepage into the floor.
Water Pipes: All plumbing should be corrosion free. Rust and discoloration are signs of a water leak.
Appliances: If appliances are included with a home, check on their working condition.
Safety Alarms: Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should be in every sleeping room and common area.
Check the Systems
Turn on the hot and cold water at every sink and look under the sink for leaks when the water is running. Check the water lines around toilets, washers, and hot water heaters for leaks.
Turn on the heating and cooling system and let it run a few minutes. Listen for irregular sounds and check boilers, water heaters, and AC units for loose pipes. You’ll need to venture outside or in the basement to do this properly.
The purpose of a whole house inspection is to locate trouble spots, but to also know your house inside and out. This is the best way to determine what’s normal and what might be an issue down the road.
CATOOSA, OK—After months of watering, mulching, staking, fertilizing, pruning, and spraying each plant, local homeowner Margie Helmholtz confirmed Wednesday that an entire summer of tending her backyard garden had yielded one edible cherry tomato. According to sources, Helmholtz paid more than $280 for soil, fencing, pesticides, and specialty gloves and hand tools, and also devoted scores of hours to the study of home gardening, purchasing two books and visiting nearly a dozen websites on the subject prior to reaping her single-tomato harvest. The 39-year-old woman is said to have spent part of each weekend on her hands and knees in the searing heat in order to transplant seedlings to her garden, keep them weeded, and ensure the plants’ thorny vines were wrapped correctly around their trellises—actions that, taken together from late May through August, produced exactly one limp tomato approximately one inch in diameter. At press time, sources …
When you hear the term "starchitect" you think of a Gehry, a Graves, a Foster. But portmanteau aside, none of these men have ever designed anything that actually existed among the stars, in outer space. But the gentleman in the video below has.
This is the architect that won the commission to design the Death Star, the mobile battle station famously blown up in what was, depending on your politics, either a horrific tragedy or an act of victory. While any structure’s HVAC systems are typically key points of infiltration—Jack Bauer and John McClane always seem to be crawling around in them—the design of the exhaust ports on the Death Star drew extra-intense scrutiny after the station was destroyed. Here, the man responsible finally sets the record straight: