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This Laravel Blade + Apline.js starter kit emphasizes simplicity by offering a lightweight, Blade-only kit.
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ElasticLens is a Laravel package that integrates Elasticsearch with Eloquent models. It provides advanced search capabilities while maintaining Laravel’s familiar syntax.
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With an $800 ceiling and photo editing performance as the goal, I asked ChatGPT for a recommended PC parts list. The result? A clean, efficient build that outperformed my expectations and made smart, deliberate choices in every category.
The mission was straightforward: build a system optimized for photo uploading and editing. It needed to be fully capable of handling large RAW files, support quick exports, allow for multitasking, and remain cool and quiet during extended editing sessions.
I asked ChatGPT to generate a component list within a strict $800 budget, optimized for creative work. Having built several PCs in the past, I didn’t expect to follow its advice exactly. Still, I was curious to see how AI would approach the balance between value and performance.
After spending over 40 hours researching, reading reviews, and comparing benchmarks, I made only a handful of minor changes. To my amazement, almost everything in the final build matched ChatGPT’s original recommendations.
Here’s the full breakdown of what went into the system, with prices from when I purchased each part in October 2024:
I already owned the RTX 2070, so that swap was more about practicality than preference. I also squeezed in a bit of RGB and changed out the case for a very similar make and model. Beyond that, I stayed incredibly close to the original AI-suggested build.
The smartest part of ChatGPT’s recommendation wasn’t the individual components—it was how it balanced performance across the entire system. There was no overspending on unnecessary features, and no individual part created a bottleneck.
The CPU offered standout value. For $70, the Ryzen 5 5500 offers six cores and Zen 3 architecture, which is plenty of muscle for photo editing without spending more than necessary.
The RAM boasts 32GB of fast DDR4-3600 memory with low latency, making it perfect for handling large projects and multiple applications simultaneously. Although ChatGPT didn’t recommend RAM sticks with RGB, the subtle lighting added a nice touch without driving up the cost much, so I felt compelled to spend a few extra dollars.
Storage was particularly well-optimized. The Crucial P3 NVMe SSD ensures fast load times for the OS and active projects, while the 4TB WD Blue drive offers plenty of room for RAW photo libraries and archives.
The motherboard includes Wi-Fi, a clean layout, and a simple BIOS menu. Nothing flashy, but highly functional and reliable.
Every dollar went toward components that directly impact real-world performance. That kind of discipline is something I’ve seen people struggle with, especially when building PCs for the first time. By choosing components wisely, I not only met my current needs but also ensured the PC is future-proof without spending a fortune.
In actual use, this build exceeds expectations.
Lightroom runs like a dream. Large RAW files open instantly, previews load quickly, and batch exports of 100+ images are finished in no time at all. Photoshop handles layers, masks, and filters with ease, even when tweaking multi-gigabyte images. AI-powered adjustments are also lightning fast.
The system stays cool, too. With the upgraded cooler and nine-fan setup, thermals never spike under load. Even during long editing sessions, the PC remains unbelievably quiet—exactly what you want in a workspace. Fan curves are easy to dial in thanks to the included hub and PWM support, allowing a fine balance between airflow and acoustics. I have my fans set to Turbo, and there’s almost no audible noise, even under heavy CPU and GPU load.
Boot times are near-instant thanks to the NVMe drive, and system responsiveness stays consistent even with dozens of tabs open, large libraries indexed in Lightroom, and other background tools running simultaneously. Whether I’m batch editing, exporting to external drives, or uploading work to the cloud, the machine keeps up with minimal stutters or delays.
While my build is optimized for photo editing, ChatGPT is more than capable of understanding the most important parts of a gaming PC or any other type of PC. It’s that same understanding that helped me prioritize the right components to build a system perfectly tailored for creative work.
Initially, I installed the Ryzen 5 5500 with its stock cooler. It worked well enough for light tasks, but once I started exporting large batches of RAW photos, the thermal limits became obvious. Performance began to throttle, and fan noise increased noticeably.
That’s where the DarkFlash Z4 Pro came in—a $21 upgrade that ChatGPT had recommended from the beginning. I hesitated at first, not realizing the impact this simple piece of hardware would have on my system’s performance. Budget aftermarket coolers can be hit-or-miss, and I was working with a fairly tight case. To my surprise, it fit perfectly, with just a few millimeters of clearance inside the Apevia Prism-WH.
The result? Temperatures dropped by more than 15°C under load. Noise levels substantially decreased. More importantly, sustained performance improved drastically. For such a modest investment, it made a much more significant impact than I expected. ChatGPT proved that it had thought ahead not only about cooling, but also about case dimensions and part compatibility.
The case ChatGPT recommended was a simple airflow model. Choosing the right case is essential for both aesthetics and functionality, and there are many great budget PC cases available. I opted for the Apevia Prism-WH Micro-ATX Cube instead of the recommended tower. This was a build for my wife, after all, and she wanted something that looked clean and modern with glass panels and a white finish.
Despite the stylistic shift, system performance wasn’t compromised. The airflow stayed strong, and the removable sides made cable management surprisingly easy. The compact cube layout gave the build a tidy, intentional feel, while still leaving enough room for a full-size GPU and aftermarket cooling.
The ARGB fans paired well with the RAM’s lighting, giving the build a polished look without too much excess. These subtle lighting accents added just the right amount of personality to a creative workspace. Customized color control was made simple thanks to the suggested fan hub, which also streamlined power and signal routing to keep the interior clean and clutter-free. Even this detail was part of ChatGPT’s suggested layout, and it ended up being one of the most convenient additions during the build process.
The result was a system that not only performed exceptionally but also looked far more expensive than it actually was. This PC is proof that clean design doesn’t require a premium price tag.
Going in, I expected ChatGPT to offer a basic list of mainstream parts. However, it surprised me with a thoughtful set of recommendations, including lesser-known brands like TeamGroup and DarkFlash. The $21 DarkFlash cooler, in particular, was a standout, something I never would have considered but ended up performing great.
In addition to the optimized system performance, what really impressed me was how compatible each component was physically and technically. The AM4 CPU, motherboard, and cooler worked seamlessly, while the SSD installed without issues. The RAM ran at full speed with no BIOS adjustments, the triple-fan GPU fit the case perfectly, and the power supply had all the right connectors, no adapters needed.
Even the cooling setup was well-thought-out. The fan hub supported ARGB and PWM, and the motherboard had just the right number of headers. It felt like every part was selected with a clear understanding of dimensions, airflow, and connections.
Most surprising of all, ChatGPT didn’t overlook the essentials—things like thermal paste, a Phillips screwdriver, and an anti-static wrist strap, which can be easy to forget. The whole experience felt more like following a well-planned PC build than assembling randomized parts.
ChatGPT didn’t know which parts were in stock or how I preferred to have my cables organized. It wasn’t able to build this PC for me, but it did provide a fully thought-out starting point.
Its recommendations weren’t randomized; they were strategic. ChatGPT was able to factor in a plethora of variables, such as compatibility, bottlenecks, thermal limits, and overall value. It helped narrow the field, allowing me to focus on refining the build rather than spending hours filtering through low-quality advice on Reddit forums or YouTube.
I double-checked every part, read benchmarks, and took my time, but I continued to return to that initial list. If I had immediately gone with the suggested parts provided by ChatGPT, it would have saved me days of research and second-guessing.
Although ChatGPT laid a solid foundation for me, it’s still essential to fine-tune your build by exploring additional tools. I had to navigate through a handful of the best custom PC builder websites to ensure the final build was perfectly aligned with my specific needs and preferences, taking into account factors that ChatGPT couldn’t fully address on its own.
Anyone who has ever built a PC knows how easy it is to waste money on parts that seem appealing on paper but do very little for real-world performance. After building more than a few PCs over the years, this one felt different. It was cleaner, quicker, and more intentional. The planning was grounded in logic and value, not flash or hype.
Thanks to a free tool and a few smart swaps, I walked away with a machine that runs faster, looks better, and costs less than anything I could have planned on my own. When working within a tight budget, every dollar needs to be intentional—and to my surprise, ChatGPT delivered exactly that.
MakeUseOf
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Whether you’re setting up an AR-15 for home defense, duty use, or range days, one decision makes a big difference: your zero distance.
Zeroing determines how your point of aim (POA) and point of impact (POI) match up across different distances.
Today, we’ll break down four common zeroing options — 25, 36/300, 50/200, and 100 yards — and help you pick the best one for your mission.
Before diving into distances, it’s important to understand the relationship between Point of Aim (POA) and Point of Impact (POI).
Because your optic sits higher than your barrel — known as height over bore — bullets travel in an arc, not a straight line. As a result, your POA and POI only truly match at specific distances. Picking the right zero helps manage that arc and makes hits easier across varying ranges.
If you’re working with a 25-yard zero, it’s usually because:
Zeroing at 25 yards theoretically sets you up for a second intersection around 300 yards. But here’s the downside: between 100 and 200 yards, your rounds can hit 4–6 inches high.
Best for:
If you expect to engage past 100 yards regularly, there are better options.
This classic Marine Corps zero involves aligning your rifle at 36 yards, which theoretically matches again at 300 yards.
Sounds perfect, right?
Here’s the catch: At 200 yards, the bullet’s trajectory peaks significantly — often 5+ inches higher than your point of aim. That may not seem like much, but it can easily cause misses on smaller, partially exposed targets or when aiming for vital zones.
Best for:
Be cautious: Unless you’re trained to account for that mid-range rise, the 36/300 zero can create problems at common engagement distances.
The 50/200-yard zero is one of the most popular for modern AR-15 users, especially those running red dot optics.
This creates a Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR), meaning you can aim center mass and expect effective hits from 0–250 yards without needing to compensate for bullet drop.
Best for:
Pro Tip: You can even rough zero at 10 yards indoors by placing your POA about 1.9 inches above your bore’s centerline before fine-tuning at the range.
The 100-yard zero is a favorite for those using magnified optics like ACOGs, LPVOs, or variable scopes.
Many BDC reticles are calibrated assuming a 100-yard zero, making it easier to estimate holdovers at extended distances.
Best for:
Heads up: With a 100-yard zero, you’ll need to understand and apply elevation holds once you stretch past 150–200 yards.
If your optic has a BDC reticle, match your zero distance to its design.
Choosing the right zero for your AR-15 isn’t just about ballistics — it’s about matching your gear to your purpose.
No matter which zero you choose, training is everything. Know your holds, your bullet rise and fall, and how your rifle behaves under stress. Confidence in your zero could make the difference when it counts.
About Scott Witner
Scott Witner is a former Marine Corps Infantryman with 2ndBn/8th Marines. He completed training in desert warfare at the Marine Air Ground Combat Center, Mountain Warfare and survival at the Mountain Warfare Training Center, the South Korean Mountain Warfare School in Pohang, and the Jungle Warfare school in the jungles of Okinawa, Japan. He now enjoys recreational shooting, trail running, hiking, functional fitness, and working on his truck. Scott resides in Northeastern Ohio.
AmmoLand Shooting Sports News
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A multimeter is invaluable for the DIY troubleshooting of electrical problems around the house. You can use it to identify faulty wiring, check if electrical sockets have power, and test batteries. My electrical engineer brother-in-law, Ryan Davis, recently showed me how to use one. Here’s a write-up of what I learned. Maybe you’ll find it handy.
A multimeter measures three electrical properties:
Multimeters come in analog and digital forms. One of the nice features of digital multimeters is that they’re auto-ranging, meaning the multimeter automatically selects the correct measurement range for the quantity you’re testing — voltage, current, or resistance — so you don’t have to manually dial in an expected value range. That makes digital multimeters easier for beginners to use.
The main components of a multimeter (whether digital or analog) include:
You can use a multimeter to test if your batteries still have juice. Here’s how to do it:
Plug the black probe into “COM” and red probe into the milliamp/μA port.
Turn the dial to DC voltage (~ V).
Touch red probe to battery’s positive terminal, black to negative.
Read the display — AA/AAA should be around 1.5V, 9V around 9V, car batteries 12.6V when charged.
A few years ago, my car wouldn’t start in the mornings. Once I jumped the battery, it was fine. The battery was good. But then a few days later, the car wouldn’t start again. I made sure I wasn’t leaving dome lights on or anything.
I ended up taking it to a mechanic, and he used a multimeter to discover a parasitic draw from a wireless phone adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter. Here’s how I could have used my multimeter to diagnose this on my own:
1. Set Up Your Meter
2. Break the Circuit at the Negative Terminal
Use a wrench to loosen and remove the negative battery cable from the battery post.
3. Connect the Meter in Series
You’re going to place the meter in series, which means you’re connecting it directly into the path of the electrical current. Instead of electricity flowing directly from the battery to the cable, it now flows through the meter first, then continues to the cable. Because the meter and cable form a single continuous path (like links in a chain), they’re said to be connected “in series.” This setup lets the meter measure all the electricity moving through that pathway.
It’s hard to see what I’m doing in this pic, but it’s this:
4. Read the Display
5. Track the Culprit
If the meter reads above 100mA:
Extension cords take a beating. Over time, the insulation can crack, wires can loosen, and corrosion can creep into the connections.
A damaged extension cord is a fire or shock waiting to happen. Fortunately, your multimeter makes it easy to test cords and catch problems before they become dangerous.
Start with the cord completely unplugged.
Set your multimeter to resistance (Ω) or continuity mode. Plug the red probe into the voltage/resistance port.
To test each wire:
Ground:
Now check for shorts:
Hot and Neutral Slots:
Repeat the same procedure for the short (hot) slot and long (neutral) slot:
If any test shows continuity between circuits that shouldn’t be connected, that cord goes in the trash. It’s not worth trying to repair.
Once you’ve confirmed the cord isn’t damaged, you can check that it’s delivering voltage properly.
Plug the cord into a live wall outlet.
Set your multimeter to AC voltage (VAC).
Insert the probes into the two female holes of the cord. You should get around 120 volts.
Move one of the probes to the ground hole (it’s round). You should again see ~120 volts.
These readings confirm the cord is carrying voltage properly and safely.
There you go. How to use a multimeter. Whether you’re checking batteries, hunting down mysterious electrical problems in your vehicle, or making sure your extension cords aren’t fire hazards waiting to happen, this simple tool can save you time, money, and headaches.
This article was originally published on The Art of Manliness.
The Art of Manliness
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Wallace & Gromit: The Wrong Trousers features a contraption that slides Wallace out of his bed, downstairs to the kitchen, into his clothes, then fixes him some toast and jam. Joseph’s Machines thought it would be fun to reenact the sequence in real life, but as his video reveals, it took a lot of prep, trial, and error to get everything to work just right.
The Awesomer
If you purchased an Apple device in the last 10 years, you might be able to receive some of the money from the company’s recently settled spying lawsuit. The original lawsuit claimed Apple was capturing sensitive information with its Siri voice assistant without users’ consent, and sending it to third-party contractors. The company agreed to settle the case for $95 million in January 2025, and thanks to the new landing page for the settlement, there’s now a way to file a claim on your own.
To file a claim, you you need to have bought an "iPhone, iPad, Apple Watch, MacBook, iMac, HomePod, iPod touch or Apple TV" between September 17, 2014 and December 31, 2024, and believe Siri accidentally activated on your device during a private conversation. From the $95 million Apple is paying out, you can receive up to $20 per device you believe called up Siri, provided you swear under oath it happened.
You have until July 2, 2025 to file your claim. If you qualify for the settlement, you may have already been notified with information on your Claim Identification Number and Claim Confirmation Code. If you haven’t received either but believe the settlement applies, you’re free to submit a claim on your own.
Apple claims that Siri was designed with protecting users’ privacy in mind, and agreeing to share data to improve the voice assistant — through your device’s Privacy & Security settings — never uses audio recordings or transcripts for anything other than training. In the case of newer devices, voice data is processed locally anyway, so agreeing to share your data is supposed to be the only way Apple could ever access it.
Given the growing focus on AI, and the large amounts of data needed to train it, there’s good reason to be skeptical about where companies are getting their training material. Apple prefers to get its customers consent, but the company has turned to new sources to help its AI research along. For example, Apple recently disclosed that it will start using the images captured for its Street View-esque feature in Apple Maps to train its models.
This article originally appeared on Engadget at https://www.engadget.com/big-tech/you-can-now-claim-your-piece-of-apples-95-million-siri-privacy-settlement-213020351.html?src=rssEngadget
To help beginners and professionals alike, we are sharing a comprehensive Python cheatsheet that covers everything from the basic syntax to powerful data science libraries. Bookmark it, print it, share it—this is the companion you didn’t know you needed.Planet Python
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Learn how to use Laravel’s database migrations to create comments on tables and track sensitive data in database applications.
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The officer couldn’t stop laughing 😂
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