Author: admin yep

Most handguns come with factory sights that are pretty rudimentary, and they’re often the first thing to be replaced. Perhaps you want to see your pistol sights better in diminished light, to acquire them quickly in bright daylight, to use them to rack the slide, or even to adjust them on the fly. There are many aftermarket options for most pistols; find one that best suits your intended use of your handgun. 

If you plan on shooting competitions at your local outdoor range, a thin, front fiber-optic sight might work best. However, if you also want to take the gun to tactical shooting courses where you’ll be racking the slide off barricades and treating
your gun like a Harbor Freight tool, you might want something a bit beefier. Choose pistol sights that are a good fit for you, because even a great handgun can be ruined with a poor aiming system. 

BASICS

The majority of pistol sights are secured in a dovetail cut — an isosceles trapezoid shape cut from left to right with the long side at the bottom, creating two angled overhangs that prevent the sight from moving up and down or fore and aft. Let’s discuss how to remove your old sight and install or “drift” in new ones.

Most sights are considered “drop-in” parts, which can be installed without any customization. However, slight fitting is sometimes required. When removing material to install sights, fit the sight to the gun, not the gun to the sight. Also, never touch the bottom of the sight dovetail. There should always be a slight gap between the underside of the sight post and the top of the slide; removing material from the bottom of the dovetail will pull the post downward, interfering with the top of the slide.

TOOL SELECTION

There are many gadgets available to install sights. “Universal” sight pushers can be handy but also rather expensive (upward of $100), and often not quite universal. Dedicated sight pushers aside, you can remove and install sights with some basic tools:

Sturdy vise: If you intend to work on firearms, a good vise is a must, preferably with at least 4-inch jaws. It should be hefty, so that when you clamp it down on something and hit it with a hammer, the vise won’t flex. This ensures all the force is transmitted to the workpiece; otherwise, it’s like trying to crack walnuts with a hammer on a mattress. When mounting a vise to a bench, try to locate it on a corner, directly above the leg, for maximum rigidity. Most vises come with scored jaws that bite into wood and rough material but will damage your slide’s finish, and a couple layers of tape won’t protect your bluing or Cerakote. You can take the jaws to a machinist to smooth off the texture or use soft jaws.

A layer of masking tape gives a little protection to your slide’s finish, or in the case of a HiPoint, prevents it from getting crap on your vice.

4-ounce ball-peen hammer: This hammer might seem dainty, but it’s the preferred striking weapon of gunsmiths for a reason. It allows much more control and finesse while keeping you out of trouble. Keep the flat face dressed with a stone to ensure good perpendicular contact and to avoid glancing hits, which can lead to shattered punches or uneven contact on the punch face.

Drift punch set: There are many different types of drift punches for drifting sights, but it’s hard to beat a simple set of steel Starrett punches. Nylon-tipped, brass, and most aluminum punches are too soft and require extra force to finely control small movements of the sight, often causing them to flex or compress. 

If you’re going to start messing with sights (and on stock Glocks, we should really put that in quotes), then you’re going to need a few basic tools.

Fine triangle file: Hopefully, your slide cuts and the sight’s dovetail will be the perfect size for a slight interference fit, allowing for hassle-free installation and solid retention. When fitting is needed, use a fine, single-cut triangle file that cuts smoothly while taking a minimum of material. Grind one side of the file smooth to use as your “safe” side. If the sight is a 60-degree dovetail, use the bottom of the sight post as a guide for a consistent, clean cut. If you have one, a triangle India stone is also handy for dressing the dovetail.  

6-inch calipers: Dial or electronic calipers allow you to precisely position the pistol sights on the slide. While not as accurate as a depth micrometer, the depth rod on the tail of the caliper will get you within a couple thousandths. 

REMOVAL

Before you start, put on eye protection, then unload your pistol, making sure to remove the magazine and clear the chamber. Then, remove the slide, recoil spring, and barrel. Attach a strip of painter’s tape on the slide flats on each side just below the sight dovetails, to provide some protection.

If you care about your handgun, grind a safe edge on your triangle file so that it only cuts on one surface at a time.

Carefully inspect both the top and the bottom of the slide around the sights. Some factory sights are further retained in the dovetail with a set screw or vertical roll pin. If so, carefully remove them. If you have an elevation-adjustable rear sight, remove the adjustment screw and spring, tilt it up to check for additional set screws underneath, and remove those as well. Make sure to use the proper hex wrench to avoid stripping them. If you suspect there’s any threadlocker, apply heat to break it up. 

Mount the slide in the vise with the right side toward the base of the vise and the bottom of the sights as close to the top of the jaws as possible. The closer they are to the jaws, the less flex you’ll get in the workpiece. The rear sights are a good place to start. They usually have a much larger flat area on the sides, so you can use a larger diameter punch to transfer more energy.

You might find that the dovetail cut on some slides is tapered; it’s easier to detect this and determine which direction it tapers on the rear sights. Pins are often installed from right to left, so it’s a good idea to first attempt to drift the sight out to the right. With the largest punch that fits inside the dovetail, place the face squarely against the sight. Full contact between the punch face and the workpiece spreads the load out and ensures maximum energy transfer.

While many people place the punch once and start wailing, try removing the punch between each strike to check for any damage (in the case of soft or cast sights), and then adjust your position or reset and hit it again. You don’t need to swing for the fences either; if you have a rigid setup, the sight should start to move quite easily. A firm 6- to 8-inch swing is typically all you need to break the static friction. If it doesn’t budge, increase your striking force gradually in small increments. If it doesn’t seem to get easier, or it doesn’t move at all, reverse the slide in the vise (so that you’re always hammering toward the base of the vise) and try from the other side.

This is what specialist aluminum punches look like after they’ve been used on handgun sights a few times. Save your money.

Once you get it moving, pay attention to the area that’s revealed as the sight moves to the side. On some pistols, there are small springs under tension beneath the rear sight. If you see the edge of a spring, move your pinky or ring finger over the hole while you push the sight to capture it.

The front sight will drift out in the same direction, but you’ll have less to work with, so you might need a smaller punch. The dovetail portion is typically quite shallow, so if you don’t feel comfortable striking it there, go as low as possible on the vertical portion of the sight. Avoid the inclination to place the edge of the punch on the dovetail, as it’ll usually swage the thinner material before it moves the sight. In this case, a flathead screwdriver might be better to increase the contact area on the dovetail or the bottom of the sight. The higher you strike the front sight, the more likely the sight post will bend or snap at the junction. Once the sights are removed, clean the dovetail slot with acetone and Q-tips. 

INSTALLATION

Make sure you read the sight manufacturer’s documentation before you install them, in case there are any special instructions. Check the edges of the dovetails on the sights. If they seem sharp or don’t have a slight radius, you can hit them with a stone or some 320-grit sandpaper to achieve about a 0.005-inch radius. This will give the corners some clearance, so they don’t catch and gall in the dovetail cut.

Don’t try to remove your front sight until you’re certain any set screw has been backed out.

Test-fit the sights by hand to see if they start in the dovetail without issue. A rule of thumb is that the pistol sights should slide in under finger pressure between one-third to just about halfway. If they do, remove the sights and apply a small amount of lube on the dovetail surfaces to prevent galling, then install them as far as they’ll go under finger pressure. Using the same technique as removal, drift the sights in until they align with any secondary retention devices or until it looks reasonably centered.

That goes for your rear sight, too.

If you find that the sight slips all the way through with little resistance, but doesn’t seem to be loose, don’t worry! You have two options. You can liberally apply some blue threadlocker to the dovetail cut, install the sight, and take the edge of a punch or a small screwdriver with a broad edge and swage the slide material to crimp the slide material down on the sight. Select a spot that’ll be hard to notice, preferably on either side of the vertical post of the sight. Then, wipe away excess threadlocker. However, if intentionally denting your slide is a little too extreme, you can try the threadlocker by itself, though this can have mixed results. When the threadlocker hardens, the crystalline structure is susceptible to cracking from the shock of the slide going into and out of battery.

If your sight goes in less than one-fourth of the way or doesn’t go in at all, first double check you have the correct replacement sight. If so, it’s time to bust out your file. Using the safe side up against the bottom of the sight post, gradually begin to remove material on only one side of the dovetail. Remember that your file only cuts one way, so don’t saw back and forth — this will kick up burrs that’ll mislead you during fitting, and you’ll end up removing too much material. Focus on smooth, linear strokes and follow the line of the material. Take three to five good swipes, wipe it clean, and check fitment. Continue this process until you can push the sight in far enough using finger pressure.

ALIGNMENT

Once you have both pistol sights installed and close to center, you can perform an initial alignment, assuming they aren’t constrained by some sort of secondary retention. Using the depth rod on your calipers, measure from the flat of the slide to the flat of the side of the sight. Then, take the same measurement on the other side of the slide. Calculate the difference between those two measurements and divide it by two. The result is how much farther you need to push the sight in from the side with the lesser measurement. 

Use the tail of your caliper to ensure the sight is centered in its dovetail to get a working mechanical zero.

Small taps and a lot of patience are key. If your pistol sights seem like they stutter or jump when attempting small adjustments, apply localized heat with a propane torch. Concentrate the heat in front and behind the dovetail cut. Mechanical center is just an initial alignment because slides and barrels don’t always line up exactly when in full battery. Take a trip to the range to see where your rounds impact in order to make your final adjustments. 

If rounds are landing left or right of where you’re aiming, you need to adjust windage, by drifting either the front or rear sight. Alternately, adjustable rear pistol sights may have a screw to adjust windage. If rounds hit high or low, adjust your elevation. With an adjustable rear sight, you can dial in the needed change. If it’s fixed, you’ll have to swap in a shorter or taller front sight to adjust your elevation. 

If you’re good at math, you can calculate the necessary sight adjustments given your sight radius, distance to target, and deviation from point of aim to point of impact. Or just use the handy online sight calculators on Dawson Precision’s and Dillon Precision’s websites. During and after your first couple range trips, admire your handiwork and periodically check your pistol sights for any looseness or movement. Once you’re confident in your sights, grab some ammo and go get some! 

More How-To’s and DIY Upgrades

ElevationLab will soon ship the the “TagVault,” a rugged, waterproof holder designed to keep your AirTag safe.

We first got eyes-on a concept of the Sig Romeo2 a couple years back and have been anticipating the release ever since. Originally slated for a 2020 release, hammering out the final details and a global pandemic pushed the official release until sometime in 2021. What we have in our hands is marked as an engineering sample, but SIG assures us it’s a good representation of what will be on the shelf.
With the Romeo2, SIG set out to make a true hybrid of a traditional open-emitter sight and a compact sealed reflex sight. Though sealed reflex sights are physically larger, they offer a number of advantages over an open-emitter reflex sight. First and most importantly, the emitter is sealed away from environmental fouling; stray lint or pocket sand can’t block an emitter unless you manage to pile up enough to block the entire window. They’re also easier to clean and can generally be made more durable. But the Sig Romeo2 goes both ways.

Straight from the box you get what appears to be a traditional open-emitter sight that we’ve come to expect from an MRDS. Digging further in you find a shield for the open configuration, a larger shield for sealed configuration, and a polycarbonate lens with an o-rig to make that seal actually happen.

The shields cleverly cantilever from the front and are held in place by two very small fasteners that we’re sure we’ll lose if we blink too slow. Definitely going to recommend the use of appropriate thread locker (such as Loctite 222) for this one.

Also included is a clever multi-tool wrench with a flathead for windage/elevation adjustment, a small torx for the shield screws, and a T-10 bit in a 28in-lb torque limiter. SIG also took the extra step of lasering the proper torque settings on the optic body itself—bravo!

There’s an integral rear sight on the Romeo2 that corresponds to a suppressor-height front sight. There are horizontal lines to cut glare, and two perfect divots carved out if you wish to put a drop of paint in them. Brightness selection is performed via two push buttons on the left side. Access to the battery door does not require any special tools nor removal of the optic; a simple push on the recessed button pops open the battery tray.

In what’s bound to be an upset to current small, sealed reflex sights, the SIG Romeo2 does not require any special footprint. The Romeo2 will fit all SIG Pro footprints, which translates to an awful lot of Leupold Delta Point Pro mounts too. The Picatinny mount we used for this build was for a DPP, as SIG didn’t yet have mounts in stock, and it worked just fine. Some mounts may have to be modified slightly.

It can be set to an auto-off if you so desire, and there’s even a magnetic-off option (with big-name duty holsters on the way).

These power-saving measures are just bonuses though, as the battery life is 25,000 hours on the medium setting (out of 12). It’s a touch lower than we’d use, and we’ll watch what happens real-world. But seeing as how the batteries are both plentiful and easy to swap, it’ll probably be just fine.

There will be plenty that will run the Sig Romeo2 in a traditional style (that felt weird saying about MRDS’) with a pistol and sealed on a subgun. Or the reverse—you can do what you want, and that’s the entire point. If the battery life is as advertised and we don’t lose any screws, we daresay this may be the best red dot for those who can’t make up their minds or swings both ways.

Stay tuned to sigsauer.com

MORE ON RED DOT SIGHTS AND OPTICS

There was a time when even the very best micro red dot sight (MRDS) would only last a couple thousand rounds on a pistol before the violent reciprocation of the slide shook it to pieces. Incremental improvements over the years resulted in some extremely tough and durable sights, some with battery life better measured in years rather than hours. And just as quality red-dot sights for rifles were eventually produced for beer-money buyers, we’re now starting to see the same in the MRDS market.

We decided to focus on budget-friendly dots with a price ceiling of $300. Of course, actual street prices are normally considerably lower. This list is far from all-inclusive and new MRDS options are being released on a regular basis. However, due to the nature of foreign manufacturing, at least some of the “new” options may well be a rebranded variation of something you see here today.

TESTING

We used a modified AF 1951 ISO 12233 test chart to evaluate optics. Not only does this chart show resolution, it also provides distortion information including optical error, chromatic aberration, centering errors, and more. For an MRDS, we focus on three optical issues: magnification, displacement, and color cast.  

Despite being advertised as 1x, sometimes an optic will slightly magnify or shrink the image seen through the glass. Displacement is the shifting of objects in view, usually vertically with an MRDS but sometimes horizontally. Color cast represents the accuracy of the color rendition of the view through the optic. This happens because special coatings are used to reflect the red (or green) reticle projection back to the shooter; they allow all light sans red to pass through the glass.

Some of these issues sound rather alarming, but odds are your favorite MRDS has some or all of these errors to some degree. Bear in mind that when you’re target-focused and shooting with both eyes open, these flaws are less important than they may seem at first. 

In terms of durability, only time will tell for many of them. Even an optic with the best reputation may fail, so training for a downed-optic is paramount if you’ll be carrying with one. Inexpensive dots can still have a place as a secondary sighting system or on a range or training gun. 

FEATURES

For each optic, we’ll explore listed features and use. Several different mounting footprints are seen across these pages. The current most-popular optical footprint milled into pistol slides is that of the Trijicon RMR, with the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro trailing behind. Other footprints that you’ll see are the RMS Shield (JPoint/DocOptic/FastFire) as well as the RMS-C (for subcompact guns). Those with plate-system guns such as the Glock MOS-series or the FN 509T are able to easily accommodate most optics, whereas others will have to seek out conversion plates or universal adapters if they don’t have a pistol with their mount in-hand. The RMS Shield footprint is gaining traction with subcompact pistols, with some manufacturers using it over the RMS-C when space is available. 

Atibal MRD V3

Dot Size: 3 MOA
Footprint: Shield
Battery Type: CR1632
Battery Life: Up to 05,000 hours
Weight (No Mount): 2.1 ounces
Objective Lens Size: 24 x 19 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? No, Top Fill
URL: atibal-optics.com
MSRP: $280

In CONCEALMENT Issue 19, we got our first look at a preproduction MRD V3. One of the changes you’ll see between the preproduction and full production is the inclusion of a rubberized cover around the optic window. Though we’re told it helps make the dot even more rugged, we’re sure the wave of cease-and-desist letters from Trijicon to many manufacturers last year may have something to do with it. 

Adjustment is performed with a small flathead. The clicks are both audible and tactile Each click corresponds to 1 MOA of adjustment. 

There are seven brightness settings and no auto-adjust, but it does feature a 12-hour auto-off. The window is one of the roomiest in this article. 

Color rendition is very good. There’s no change to magnification, but some slight vertical refraction is present. 

In terms of batteries, the CR1632 battery used by the MRD V3 isn’t as common as a CR2032, but still easy to find. It also lasts more than five years and is top-fill so it can be replaced without losing zero. 

Burris FastFire3

Dot Size: 3 or 8 MOA
Footprint: Shield
Battery Type: CR1632
Battery Life: Up To 5,000 hours
Weight (No Mount): 0.9 ounce
Objective Lens Size: 21 x 15 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? No, Top Fill
URL: burrisoptics.com
MSRP: $230

As you may have divined by the name, Burris has been continually improving and updating their MRDS offerings. Our example is well-used, having spent time on everything from a 22LR Ruger pistol to an offset mount on a scope to an airsoft training gun. 

Adjustment is performed with a small flathead. The 1 MOA clicks are just barely tactile, but you’ll never be able to feel them through gloves. 

There are four brightness settings, including an auto-adjust mode that uses a sensor on the front to determine the proper brightness. The dot is crisp at lower brightness settings but begins to bloom at the highest setting. 

Color rendition is slightly blue. There’s no errant magnification but there’s some vertical refraction present. 

The FF3 uses a CR1632 battery. Battery life is only 5,000 hours so we’re thankful that it can be changed without requiring a re-zero.

Bushnell RXS-250

Dot Size: 4 MOA
Footprint: Deltapoint Pro
Battery Type: CR2032
Battery Life: Up To 50,000 hours
Weight (No Mount): 1.5 ounces
Objective Lens Size: 24 x 17 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? No, Top-Fill
URL: bushnell.com
MSRP: $250

First introduced in fall 2020, the RXS-250 packs a ton of quality into a street price just above $200. It has a ruggedized body without the cheap Chinese anodizing feel of many others on this list. We’ve seen one dropped several times on concrete that was no worse for wear, and we’re told it passes MIL-STD-810 drop testing while mounted on a loaded pistol.

The clicks are both audible and tactile, and each click corresponds to 1 MOA of adjustment. You need a small flathead to make adjustments.

There are 10 brightness settings and no auto-adjust. 

Color rendition is just ever-so-slightly blue but isn’t distracting. Magnification is 1x, but we see some vertical refraction. 

For batteries, no complaints here; not only does the RXS-250 use the common CR2032 battery, it can be replaced without removing the optic and has an anticipated battery life of more than five years. 

Crimson Trace CTS-1250

Dot Size: 3.25 MOA
Footprint: Shield
Battery Type: CR1632
Battery Life: TBD
Weight (No Mount): 1 ounce
Objective Lens Size: 27 x 17 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? No, Top Fill
URL: crimsontrace.com
MSRP: $230

Though they’re certainly still making lasers, Crimson Trace began dipping their toes into the optics game a couple short years ago. We began seeing their MRDS pop up as OEM options on other pistols (see our review of the XD-S Mod 2 OSP in RECOIL Issue 53), and now they’re enjoying a wider release. It’s so new that at the time of this writing, we don’t even have all of the details of this optic. You’ll note the lack of a hard battery life rating, though undoubtedly by the time of publication it’ll be available (and we’re told should be better measured in years and not hours). 

Adjustments are made with a small flathead. The clicks are both audible and tactile, and each click corresponds to 1MOA of travel. 

There are 10 brightness settings, including three that are NV-compatible. There’s no auto-adjust. 

Color rendition has just a kiss of blue. There’s a slight reduction in magnification and also some horizontal refraction. 

The CTS-1250 uses a CR1632 battery. The optic doesn’t have to be removed to swap the battery.

NC Star FlipDot M2

Dot Size: 3 MOA
Footprint: RMR
Battery Type: CR2032
Battery Life: ???
Weight (No Mount): 1 ounce
Objective Lens Size: 22 x 16 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? Yes
URL: ncstar.com
MSRP: $100

Yes, this is the cheap red dot with a neat flip-out action. This giant ball of fail is so bad even NC Star has discontinued it because of constant issues. It has since been replaced with the FlipDot Pro. What surprised us is that the NC Star FlipDot ships with several mounts, including a Glock dovetail adapter, Glock MOS plate, RMR spacer, and Picatinny mount. As the name implies, the dot can be flipped up by pressing a springform switch.

At this point, we’d normally talk about adjustment, but the lens itself loosened under recoil within a couple shots. Awesome.

Color rendition is blue but not terrible when viewed head-on. Surprisingly, there’s very little in terms of other optical errors. 

For batteries, the FlipDot uses a CR2032. The optic must be removed to re-zero, and no battery life was listed (which doesn’t seem to be a good sign). 

Leave this one for cheesy SyFy channel movies.

SIG Sauer Romeo Zero

Dot Size: 3 or 6 MOA
Footprint: RMS-C
Battery Type: CR1632
Battery Life: Up To 20,000 hours
Weight (No Mount): 0.4 ounce
Objective Lens Size: 18.3 x 16.4 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? Yes
URL: sigsauer.com
MSRP: $220

SIG Sauer has long since jumped into the optics game, and they developed the Romeo Zero with their P365 XL in mind (see CONCEALMENT Issue 15). The Romeo Zero is well-sized to ride on top of subcompact pistols as well as 1911s. Though the body is polymer, we’ve seen few complaints regarding durability from those using them every day. 

Adjustments are made with the included hex wrench, but there are no tactile clicks. The Romeo Zero ships optically centered, so it’s not too much of an ordeal.

A standout feature is the integral rear sight; the Romeo Zero will co-witness with standard sights. There are eight brightness settings and no auto-adjust, as well as an auto-off and shake awake. 

Color rendition strays into the blue spectrum. There’s an ever-so-slight reduction in magnification but no refraction.

For batteries, the Romeo Zero uses a CR1632. Though the sight does have to be removed to replace, with its battery life that shouldn’t be too much of an issue.

The SIG Romeo Zero is a set-it-and-forget-it optic. Give your batteries a swap every other year. Interestingly, the Romeo Zero is assembled in Oregon on an automated, robot-equipped production line rather than purely by hand. We toured SIG’s optics manufacturing facility last year and marveled at the robot overlords putting them together.

HEX Optics WASP

Dot Size: 3.5 MOA
Footprint: RMS-C
Battery Type: CR2032
Battery Life:~20,000 hours, real use
Weight (No Mount): 0.7 ounce
Objective Lens Size: 20 x 15 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? Yes
URL: hexoptics.com
MSRP: $299

You probably haven’t heard of Hex Optics before, but you’ve definitely heard of Springfield Armory. Springfield started Hex to not only have OEM options for their own pistol line, but to also sell them independently. Along with the launch of the micro-mini Wasp, another initial offering will be the Dragonfly, a duty or competition model with an RMR footprint. 

A hex wrench is included for adjustments. While there are no tactile or audible clicks, the Wasp ships with an external guide for zero adjustments, similar to the original Burris FastFire series. 

Like the SIG Romeo Zero, the Wasp has an integral rear sight for co-witnessing with standard-height front sights. The body is constructed of T6 6061 aluminum, and there’s no user-selectable brightness — auto-adjust is all you have, and the Wasp is always on. 

Color rendition is excellent. There’s a slight reduction in magnification and some horizontal refraction. 

The Hex Wasp uses the common CR2032 battery, the largest possible that’ll fit into this miniature sight body, and the optic must be removed to replace it. 

Swampfox Liberty

Dot Size: 3 MOA
Footprint: RMR
Battery Type: CR1632
Battery Life: ~9,000 hours, real use
Weight (No Mount): 1.02 ounces
Objective Lens Size: 22 x 15 mm
Dismount to Replace Battery? No, Top Fill
URL: swampfoxoptics.com
MSRP: $249 (plain), $294 (with shield)

Swampfox is a newer company, but they’re very ambitious about regularly releasing improved optics. Their first pistol MRDS was the Kingslayer, a not-so-subtle hint at trying to take down the Trijicon RMR, with which it shares a footprint. Their latest CCW-oriented MRDS is the Liberty — little brother to the duty/competition, Justice. 

You need a small flathead screwdriver to make adjustments. Though there’s a guide, adjustments are neither tactile nor audible.

An optional accessory for the Liberty is the Ironsides Shield for extra durability. This stainless shield is designed to route impact stresses from the optic to the footprint itself. There are dual buttons on the left side of the optic to both turn it on and adjust brightness. There are 10 brightness settings and no auto-adjust. After four minutes of no motion, the illuminator will shut off and then instantly wake up with any movement. 

Color rendition is excellent, and there’s an ever-so-slight horizontal refraction present.

For batteries the Swampfox Liberty uses a CR1632 and is replaced from the top with the assistance of a T10 Torx wrench.

MORE ON RED DOT SIGHTS AND OPTICS